In Search of Grapeness: Norton

The last month of my life has largely been spent huddled over a book or a laptop doing work of some sort.  In that time, I have had few pleasures to call my own except for when I call it quits around 9 p.m. and delve into a glass of wine to cap the end of my work day.  Now normally I am a devoted fan of Pinot Noir, however, my proximity to Missouri wine country piqued my locavore instincts and has driven me to sample Missouri wines exclusively over the last few months.  Now I will be the first to admit, not all Missouri wine is good wine.  Much of it is very sweet and likeable, but the vast majority will not make a seasoned oenophile perk up and take notice.  And then I got into Norton.

A light went off.  WHAT IS THIS?  A dry red wine from Missouri that tastes good?  No, it can’t be.  Oh yes my friends, it can.  In the last couple of months I have been on a Norton sampling kick.  I have sampled Norton wines from the Augusta region, the Ozark Highlands region, the Southeast region, Hermann, Central Missouri, and each time I have been blown away.  I can say with confidence that this isn’t just good wine for Missouri, this is GOOD wine.

So what is Norton?  Well, it is an American grape.  Whereas grapes like the Concord grape or the Catawba grape, which are also native to America, fall into the Vitis labrusca species Norton falls into a separate species called Vitis aestivalis.  Rumor has it that it is a hybrid grape with its European cousin Vitis vinifera.  All I know is that it is excellent.

Norton was invented by a Virginian named Dr. Daniel Norton in the early 1800’s.  In the time following the Revolutionary War, many Americans wanted to reduce their reliance on European wine and begin a wine industry in America.  The problem was that the grapes native to the America were not well-suited to making high quality red wines like the Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Pinot Noir grapes were.  In fact, Virginians such as Thomas Jefferson sought to undertake horticultural experiments to make an American grape that could compete with its European cousins.  Where Thomas Jefferson failed, Dr. Daniel Norton succeeded and Norton wine was born.

During the 19th Century, the Norton grape was widely grown in states like Virginia and Missouri, with Missouri being the largest wine producer in the United States prior to Prohibition.  Back then,  drinking establishments in St. Louis would sell barrels of the wine and locals would fill their glasses, pitchers, or other containers with the wine for consumption.  Norton wine was alive and well in America until the advent of Prohibition.  Just as Prohibition spelled the end of an era for many breweries and distilleries, it particularly devastated the American wine industry.  Wine’s resurgence in America was largely pioneered in California during the latter half of the 20th century.  This resurgence began to resonate in Missouri in the 1980s and has continued gathering momentum.  Currently, the wine industry in Missouri is growing rapidly with 4 American Viticultural Areas and almost 100 wineries.

Norton has always been the favored wine of Missouri and it is for that reason that many of Missouri’s wineries have begun to bring this underappreciated grape back to prominence.  So what does the wine actually taste like?

Tasting Notes

Generally, Norton is a big wine.  I have looked at a number of Norton reviews and almost every one features the same two words.  Fruity and Dark.  Norton in a glass is the darkest wine I have ever seen.  It is at once both fruity and spicy.  Many times the first sip of a Norton wine can be overwhelming to those who have never had it before.  It is fruit forward with prominent grape flavors, lots of acidity, a fair dose of tannins depending on the bottle, and a finish that almost always features a host of earthy flavors of coffee or tobacco.
It often amuses me that things from America imitate the American spirit.  Norton is no exception.  It is strong, it is assertive, it is just a big delicious wine that I can never be without again.  This is what I love about Norton.  It is just us and the sad part is that we don’t even know it yet.
If you have ever been a big music fan, you will know that at one point there was a band that you loved and was awesome, but later they “sold out”.  Well, Norton has not been sold out yet.  It is still in the underground stage with a small but loyal fan following.  Even a google search of Norton wine yields an unimpressive set of results in this day and age, so if you are a locavore or a oenophile looking for something new to try, Norton is the next big thing.  Plus, Norton is not easy to grow.  Missouri and Virginia are not exactly widely regarded climates for hospitable weather.  Cold snowy winters, hot humid summers, hail, tornadoes, thunderstorms.  Not exactly easy living.  And Norton takes a gentle touch to show off its best characteristics, so the skill that goes into making a great Norton is truly worth celebrating.

Norton's Natural Food Pairing

Food Pairing

Norton’s fruit forwardness and earthy flavors are a natural match for lamb or beef.  I had St. James’s Winery’s 2006 Norton with a lamb chop and was blown away.  If you are looking for a wine to stand up to a heavy meat course, look no further.

Serving Tips

I have found that Norton wines benefit immensely from a chance to breathe.  Pouring your wine into a decanter or even just a wine glass for 30-45 minutes turns a good wine into a great wine.  I think the problem with many of those wine critics who drink Norton is that they do not give it sufficient time to breathe and are overwhelmed by its power.  While I can appreciate the subtleties from one Norton to another after a couple of months of drinking them, I can imagine that someone accustomed to drinking very fine Pinot Noir, Merlot, or Cabernet Sauvignon would just be overwhelmed by their first taste of Norton.  However, I have found that if I let a quality Norton breathe and put it in a blind taste testing with self-professed “wine snobs” that they are intrigued by it.  It is only after they find out it is a Missouri Norton that they find ways to not like it.  Too bad.  If this stuff was grown in Napa it would sell for $100 a bottle.

Norton also benefits well from aging.  In fact, many of the Norton wines you see on shelves will be aged at least 3 years to allow the wine to smoothe out and become something that is truly special.

The Bottom Line

Ladies and gentlemen, I urge you to seek out Norton wine.  Not all of it is good, but I have found more of it is good than bad in my quest.  If you are lucky enough to be in Missouri it is likely that Norton wines are tucked in among the other wines on the rack but are often passed-by due to the name on their label.  I have also heard very encouraging reports that Norton wines from Virginia, such as Chrysalis Vineyards, are also excellent.  I look forward to trying these on my quest to sample great Norton.  So I leave you with this… Support a small local vineyard in the heart of the country that is putting out a great product that most wine snobs scoff at… I did and I will never look back.  Norton I love you.

Some of my favorite Norton wines

–Louis P. Balducci Vineyards.  Augusta, MO.  Norton.  $16.99 retail.

–St. James Winery.  St. James, MO.  2006 Norton.  $16.95 retail.

–Westphalia Vineyards.  Westphalia, MO.  Norton Reserve 2008.  $20.99 retail.

–Adam Puchta Winery.  Hermann, MO.  Norton Vintner’s Reserve.  $21.99 retail.

–Les Bourgeois Vineyards.  Rocheport, MO.  Norton 2007.  $22.00 retail.

–Chaumette Winery.  Ste. Genevieve, MO.  Norton.  $20.99 retail.

–Bethlehem Valley Vineyards.  Augusta, MO.  Norton 2005.  $23.99 retail.

In Search of Grapeness: Balducci Winery

If I had to rate my favorite Missouri Winery, Balducci would be the one wearing a gold medal.  I think Balducci has the most space, best setting, and the most beautiful view of any of the wineries on Highway 94.  A classic Midwestern farm turned winery, the atmosphere here has a nostalgic Norman Rockwell feel that gets better with each passing glass of wine.  Although Balducci is a bit farther out than the majority of the other wineries (it is past Augusta), but the extra driving is more than worth it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Unlike other wineries, Balducci offers both food and drinks on-site so skip on bringing your own stuff with you.  That being said, both the food and wine are exceptional.  The natural starting point at the winery is the tasting bar where friendly staff will pour you free samples of any wines and help guide your choice.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A lean-to turned wine tasting bar

 

The Wine

With the exception of Balducci’s Norton and Vidal Blanc, the remainder of their wines are blends of various grapes.  However, the blended wines are wonderful.  Here were some of my group’s favorites:

Sonata:  Balducci’s Sonata wine is a semi-dry wine which is made from a blend of Vidal, Seyval, Raydon, and Chardonel grapes.  Like other Missouri wineries, a semi-dry Missouri wine would be a sweet wine anywhere else.  If you are looking for a wine with a dryness to match a Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc, stick with the Vidal Blanc.  The wine is a good replacement for a Riesling since it is light-bodied, has crisp acidity, and features wonderful floral aromas and melon favors.

Dolce Bianco:  A sweet easy-drinking white.  This wine goes down so smooth that the woman pouring samples at the tasting bar told me to be careful with this stuff since it was so easy to drink fast.  The wine had lots of fruit with subtle notes of pineapple and passion fruit.  If this is the bottle you choose good luck pacing yourself, this wine is like candy (in a good way).

Chiaretto:  This was the unanimous favorite among our group.  Balducci classifies the wine as a semi-dry red wine full of berry flavors.  The wine is made from Chambourcin and St. Vincent grapes which are aged in stainless steel.  It has a cloying sweetness, much like a Sangria but without the fruit or sugar.  In fact, our group agreed that this wine was a great match for food and it was the perfect companion for Balducci’s exceptional pizza.  If you have to get one bottle of wine here, this is the one I would recommend.  Have it chilled and enjoy!

The Experience

Of the wineries I have visited, Balducci was by far the most fun and free-spirited.  The day my group and I visited there was an amazing cover band which did one of the most convincing Michael Jackson renditions I have ever heard.  People were dancing, having fun, and enjoying a beautiful fall day to its utmost potential.  If calm and relaxed is more your style, worry not.  Just grab your bottle of wine, head down the hill, and sit down at one of the tables while taking in the leaves changing color, the vineyards, or the hills in the distance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Food

Don’t miss the pizza at the winery.  Eating great pizza outside with a perfect glass of wine was the highlight of the day.  Balducci’s pizza comes in 2 versions, a deep pan pizza and a thin-crust.  We opted for the thin-crust and stumbled upon some of the best pizza I’ve had in St. Louis.  The crust was thicker than the typical St. Louis style and I didn’t detect any provel, but man this stuff was good.  The crust had a great crunch, matched by a sweet sauce, mozzarella cheese, and fresh toppings.  Given how good the thin-crust was, I can’t wait to try the deep pan version. Match the pizza with a chilled glass of Chiaretto wine and you have the makings for a truly wonderful meal.

I recently found out that the same pizza is available at Balducci’s Resturant in Maryland Heights, so if you don’t have time to drive out to the winery you can get it in the metro too.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There is no better way to spend a fall day than to make the drive out to Balducci Vineyards and Winery.  The combination of setting, wine, and food makes Balducci one of the best all-around winery experiences in Missouri.  Add in the fact that you can almost always find a place to sit, there is enough space so that you aren’t piled on top of others, there is no cover charge, and you have a winning recipe for a great winery.  Make the trip out to Augusta and give Balducci a try.

Photos Courtesy of Kyle Gisbrecht.

In Search of Grapeness: A Trip to Missouri Wine Country

A vineyard near Defiance, Missouri

 

Wine?  In Missouri?  Is it any good?

If you have ever talked to anyone about Missouri wine there is a fair chance that you were hit with the questions above.  Let me be clear, Missouri is not the Napa Valley, or Bordeaux, or Tuscany.  You see, we here in Missouri sweat profusely in the summer months, shiver our way through the winter months, and do our best to enjoy ourselves in the seasons in between.  It takes a hearty constitution to live in the Midwest and the grapes which thrive here reflect those same character traits.

Wine aside, visiting a Missouri winery is the true pinnacle of the experience.  For me, it is less about engaging in wine snobbery and more about giving us scenery-starved Midwesterners a chance to live the good life, to drive on a beautiful winding road, look at the leaves change color, and take a break from our otherwise busy lives by spending a gorgeous fall day outdoors sipping a glass of wine.

Now this isn’t to say that Missouri wine is bad.  In fact, Missouri has a rich wine history and some of the wines grown here have placed or even won national and international competitions.  Regardless, you aren’t going to see a Missouri wine pop up in the pages of Wine Spectator anytime soon.

 

Missouri wines are usually hybrids of grapes native to the Americas, Vitis labrusca, and the better-known French grapes, Vitis vinifera. American grapes are usually regarded as inferior to their European counterparts on account of the foxy or musky flavors present in many of the native American grapes.  While discerning palates can detect the foxiness of labrusca grapes, the wines which use them have been improving and with proper blending any musky flavors are either minimized or elminated completely.  So before we talk about the different wineries, let’s break down the types of grapes grown in Missouri and the wines you will find.

Red Grapes

Norton (Cynthiana):  The Norton or Cynthiana grape is often compared to Shiraz.  It makes for a robust, deep colored, and full-bodied wine that features a complex mix of fruit, spice and oak flavors.  Norton also happens to be the official grape for the state of Missouri.

Chambourcin:   Charmbourcin makes a wine with an intense ruby color, lots of fruit, and a slight hint of spice.  Some compare it to a Syrah, but a lot depends on the individual winery.  Some wineries do Charmbourcin as a dry red, while others leave some residual sugar in for a semi-dry wine.  Take advantage of a free tasting to determine which one is which.

White Grapes

Vidal Blanc:  Another French-American hybrid, the Vidal Blanc grape is known for providing strong fruit flavors, often with grapefruit, pineapple, or even melon notes.  Vidal Blanc is a versatile grape and can produce a wine that ranges from a drier almost Sauvignon Blanc style wine to sweet dessert wines.

Seyval Blanc:  The Seyval Blanc grape is a French-American hybrid known for producing a dry or semi-dry white wine with notable citrus flavors and a fair degree of minerality.  The wine’s fresh flavors and medium body may be compared most closely to a Chenin Blanc.

Chardonel:  Chardonel is a cross between the French-American hybrid grape Seyval Blanc and the Chardonnay grape. It produces a dry wine with crisp flavors.  Green apple notes and some vegetal character are characteristic for this wine.

Vignoles:  The Vignoles grape is most often utilized for the floral character it adds to a wine.  Vignoles often produces pineapple flavors and produces crisp sweet wines that are comparable to Rieslings.

Many of the wines you will find in Missouri are blends that bring out the best character of each grape for a superior wine.  However, Norton and Vidal Blanc are often left unblended and with the proper care can make a very fine wine.

Photos courtesy of Kyle Gisbrecht.