In many ways sandwiches define a city. Philadelphia has its Cheesesteak, New York has Pastrami on Rye, Chicago the Italian Beef, and New Orleans of course has the Po’ Boy. What about St. Louis though, what is our sandwich claim to fame? To find the answer to that question, look no further than the Hot Salami sandwich at Gioia’s Deli in St. Louis’s quintessential Italian neighborhood, The Hill.
The story of Gioia’s (pronounced joy-ahs) began in 1918 when Challie Gioia, an immigrant from Marcallo, Italy bought the building at 1934 Macklind Street with the hopes of starting a grocery store. However, it wasn’t until years later when Challie’s sons Steve and Johnnie Gioia added a lunch counter to the store that St. Louis’s signature sandwich was truly born. In 1980, the Gioia family sold their store (and their Hot Salami recipe) to the Donley family who expanded Steve and Johnnie Gioia’s lunch counter into the deli Gioia’s is today.
The Hot Salami Sandwich
Salam de Testa, better known today as Hot Salami, is a thick-sliced yet soft-textured salami that has more in common with terrine than the genoa, cotto, or hard salami most of us are accustomed to. The flavor of the salami itself carries hints of pepper and garlic with an earthy undertone. Trust me when I tell you it’s delicious.
Gioia’s pairs the hot salami with a sandwich roll baked at Fazio’s Bakery, located on The Hill just down the street from the deli. Fazio’s bread is a perfect match for the salami, ensuring that any juices get soaked into the bread but without losing its perfect crusty texture. The choice of cheese is yours, spice it up with pepper cheese or keep it an authentic St. Louis eat by going the provel route. Garnish it or go simple, whatever it takes to make your Hot Salami sandwich sing.
A perfect Hot Salami Sandwich
Interview with the Owner
As part of this Sip & Snack feature and to learn more about this St. Louis institution, I recently had the chance to meet with Alex Donley whose family has been running Gioia’s since 1980.
Alex Donley putting together Gioia’s Signature Hot Salami Sandwich.
S&S: So Donley, that name doesn’t sound very Italian. What is it like being an Irish guy owning a business on The Hill?
Alex: It’s not really a big deal today, but back when my family first took over the business it was more of an issue. For awhile some people even boycotted the deli.
S&S: Judging from the line at the counter the boycott must not have gone over very well.
Alex: Nah, the Hot Salami prevailed.
S&S How long has Gioia’s been around exactly?
Alex: My family has been running it as a deli for about 30 years now, but the business itself has been around for 92 years.
S&S: What kind of deli would you describe Gioia’s as?
Alex: Well the Italian connection is definitely there, but more than anything I like to think of us as a St. Louis deli.
S&S: What do you mean by St. Louis deli?
Alex: Being on The Hill is an important part of our identity, but we like to think of ourselves as serving the entire city. We try our best to get to know our customers and if we can’t remember a customer’s name we’ll at least try to remember their sandwich.
S&S: So let’s talk about your signature item, the Hot Salami. How do you make it?
Alex: Well the exact recipe is a secret, but we make it here at the deli twice a week and cook it fresh everyday.
S&S: Do you make your other items from scratch?
Alex: Everything we can we do ourselves and anything we can’t pretty much comes from other businesses here on The Hill. Besides the Hot Salami, we make our roast beef and turkey ourselves. There are 4 customers who come in everyday and order a turkey sandwich. We also make our soups in-house and have a soup following of about 30 guys. Also, for dessert we also have homemade gelato.
S&S: Now for the most important question I’ll ask you today, what is your favorite thing to eat on the menu?
Alex: When I splurge I get The New York Philly Beef with cream cheese and peppers, add a layer of Hot Salami, and dip it in au jus. Then I take a nap.
S&S: Any plans to expand business or open another location?
Alex: Opening another location would be nice but we would only do it if we can make sure that the new location maintains the same quality. We can’t lose what makes Gioia’s… well Gioia’s. So, right now I’m working on building a catering business.
S&S: Is there a big rivalry between Gioia’s and other local sandwich shops?
Alex: People in St. Louis are very loyal to their delis, but I don’t know that it would really be a big rivalry between the delis themselves. I think any rivalry is less about us trying to take business from each other and more about getting customers to eat at a local sandwich shop instead of Subway.
S&S: Since this is the neighborhood spotlight, what would you like to see happen to The Hill in the future?
Alex: I think a neighborhood festival would really be good for The Hill. Soulard has Mardi Gras and Oktoberfest, Dogtown has St. Patrick’s Day, so I’d like to see The Hill do something similar.
S&S: Anything in mind?
Alex: Doing something similar to the Taste of the Central West End in the Hill would work well. Closing down Daggett Avenue for a weekend, getting the vendors on The Hill together, and having entertainment could be a great way to get the community together and promote our neighborhood.
We would like to give special thanks to Alex Donley for taking the time to talk to the good foodies at Sip & Snack, not to mention putting together one hell of a sandwich. But as always don’t take our word for it, get to Gioia’s Deli and try St. Louis’s favorite sandwich, the Hot Salami.
Photos courtesy of Ben Fjellanger Photography.
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